Two Days on the Ruby Horsethief: An Overnight Packrafting Escape on the Colorado River

Photos by: Braden Gunem
Story by: Emily L. Doig

Some trips are about covering big miles. Others are about slowing down, sharing good meals with friends, and letting the river set the pace.

Our recent overnight on the Ruby Horsethief section of the Colorado River was exactly that.

Over two days, our group floated beneath towering sandstone cliffs, camped along the river at Black Rock, swam in bathtub-warm water, watched wildlife emerge from the canyon walls, and experienced both the challenges and rewards that make desert rivers so memorable.

A Perfect River for Packrafting

Stretching through western Colorado and into Utah, the Ruby Horsethief section of the Colorado River is one of the most scenic flatwater floats in the Southwest. Gentle currents wind through sandstone cliffs, cottonwood-lined banks, and broad desert landscapes that feel remarkably remote despite being only a short drive from civilization.

It's an ideal destination for packrafts.

With a few wave trains and no real whitewater to navigate, efficiency becomes everything. Covering miles comfortably means less energy fighting the river and more time enjoying camp, hiking side canyons, and soaking in the scenery.

For this trip, most of our group paddled the Chinook and Aleutians—our flatwater-focused packrafts designed for exactly these types of adventures. Their longer lines and efficient hull shapes (plus skeg) made a noticeable difference, especially when the river decided to remind us that current isn't the only force moving water downstream.

A few paddlers also brought the Mule and Gnarwhal, making for a fun opportunity to compare boats throughout the weekend. Although, Flatwater or Lightwater packrafts are best for this trip.

Packing for an Overnight Adventure

One of the joys of packrafting is carrying everything you need inside the boat.

Each of us packed our overnight gear inside the Cargo Fly Zipper storage system, keeping the boats clean, balanced, and uncluttered while maximizing paddling performance.

Getting to and from the river was equally simple thanks to lightweight Hyperlite Mountain Gear packs (love their gear!), making shuttles and camp carries easy.

With warm daytime temperatures and cool desert evenings, Ibex Mens and Women's Goat Tee and Long Sleeve Goat Tee layers proved to be just about perfect for the conditions—comfortable during long hours on the water and cozy once the sun dipped behind the canyon walls.

Check out the packing list for this trip here.

Day One: Headwinds and Sandstorms

The morning started exactly how every desert river trip should.

Glassy water. Blue skies. The river gently pulling us downstream.

We settled into an easy rhythm, spreading out across the river as conversations drifted from boat to boat. Wildlife was everywhere and we even saw desert sheep, several herons, feral geese, and turkeys along the way.

By early afternoon, however, the desert reminded us who's really in charge.

Headwinds are common on summer afternoons on Ruby Horsetheif, but this one was far worse than headwinds any of us had seen on this stretch of the river before. Before long, the wind was pushing sand through the canyon, reducing visibility and covering everything—from packrafts to snacks—in a fine layer of desert grit. And at one point the river looked like it was flowing backwards with white capped waves. It was wild.

Luckily, this is where the Chinook and Aleutian really shined.

Their efficient hulls tracked confidently into the wind, allowing us to continue making steady progress while minimizing fatigue. While no packraft can make a headwind disappear, covering long flatwater miles becomes significantly more enjoyable when your packraft is designed with efficiency in mind.

Despite the conditions, we logged an impressive 17–18 miles, eventually arriving at Black Rock Camp tired, sandy, and smiling.

Black Rock Camp

As quickly as the wind arrived, it disappeared.

Camp came together naturally.

The Colorado was surprisingly warm—more like a giant bathtub than a snow-fed western river. Swimming quickly became mandatory.

Afterward, tents went up. Dry clothes replaced paddling layers. Jetboils fired up for dinner.

One of the highlights of the evening was sharing beers, snacks and Gastro Gnome meals around camp. Unfortunately we couldnt have a fire because there was still a little wind, but nothing like what we had on the river.

The conversation lasted long after dinner. Past trips remembered and future adventures were being planned. Along with stories and big ideas exaggerated just enough to make them better.

Eventually, the stars replaced the fading daylight, and the canyon settled into silence.

Day Two: Desert Perfection

The next morning couldn't have been more different. No wind. Very calm. Great paddling. The Colorado River transformed into a mirror, reflecting towering canyon walls as we sipped fresh coffee brewed on our Jetboils before breaking camp.

With the longest day behind us, there was no rush. The miles came easily. We stopped often. Chatted along the way.

The slower pace allowed us to notice details we'd easily paddle past otherwise.

More Than Just Miles

While the scenery was unforgettable, what made the trip special was the people. Packrafting has a way of simplifying life. Phones stay tucked away. Meals become shared experiences. Everyone helps with camp. The river naturally creates space for conversations that don't happen in everyday life.

Between the paddling, swimming, coffee and dinner sessions, wildlife sightings, and countless laughs, it became clear that the destination was only part of the adventure.

Why the Chinook and Aleutian Belong on Rivers Like This

The Ruby Horsethief isn't technically difficult, but it does reward efficiency.

Long flatwater sections, with smaller wave trains, and afternoon winds make boat speed and tracking more important than maneuverability alone.

That's exactly where the Chinook and Aleutian excel.

Designed for flatwater adventures, multi-day expeditions, and long-distance travel, they allow paddlers to cover more ground with less effort while still packing down small enough to hike into remote launches or travel by bike, plane, or backpack. They're built to make the journey as enjoyable as the destination.

Planning Your Own Ruby Horsethief Adventure

The Ruby Horsethief is one of those rare rivers that offers something for everyone.

Beautiful desert scenery. Easy paddling. Warm swimming (depending on runoff water temps). Excellent camping. Abundant wildlife.

And just enough unpredictability to keep every trip memorable.

For us, it was a reminder that the best adventures don't always require remote wilderness or technical whitewater. Sometimes all you need is a good group of friends, a few days away from routine, fresh coffee each morning, and a river winding through some of the most beautiful canyon country in the American West.

We'll be back. And next time, we'll still hope for calm mornings—but we'll be ready if the desert decides to throw a little wind our way.

Note: Just a friendly reminder to get your river permit and reserve your campsites before floating this section of the river. And pack everything out including wag bags (Toilet in a Tube is a great system for this trip).